Katherine Gorge Day 3

Tuesday 31st May

Change of author today, so I hope I can keep up the high standard!

The park is called the Nitmiluk National Park, and is owned by the Jarwoyn people. Nitmiluk means place of the cicada, and on Sunday when we arrived we saw a Blue winged kookaburra eating what appeared to be a large green cicada. The land was returned to the Jarwoyn in 1989, and they have leased it to the federal government for 99 years. It is now jointly managed and employs a lot of indigenous people.

Invited some fellow campers ( two couples) over for a drink after dinner last night, so had an extremely late night. Heck, it must have been 10 pm before we hit the sack !

They were people with similar interests and heaps of off road experience, so we had a great time.

One couple from south coast NSW (retired teachers) are very interested in buying a Topaz. So they want a report after we get home.

A little hotter but still near perfect, so we set off early for a 2 to 3 hour loop walk up to the lookout and then along the escarpment and then back to camp. The views of the gorge were spectacular as you would expect, and birds and flowers so interesting.

Caroline used your walking stick Sue, and found it very helpful (saved her from a fall on the walk).

Lots of different coloured butterflies...bright yellow, black and white, brown and azure, and many others. Amy would have loved them. Managed to get a couple of shots of the Scarlet Jezebel and the Wild Tiger.

Scarlet Jezebel

Wild Tiger

The birds here are a real challenge. Whereas at home I recognise about 99% of calls, which eliminates the need for investigation, here I feel bombarded by unknown calls, which makes life very interesting but difficult. Many of the honeyeaters are very small and restless, which is another challenge. Caroline is a great help with another pair of eyes and ears, and when we meet Rob S at Broome, we’ll have the little blighters licked !

I had what I thought was a bright idea a couple weeks ago, and bought a bird bath to place strategically outside the van. Until today it’s been total failure, but we now have Great Bower birds drinking from it. They are very common around the camp, always looking for handouts. No luck from us.

One of the more interesting plants we saw was the Kapok tree. They are deciduous ! and flower when all the leaves have fallen.

The flowers are a beautiful yellow

 and the seed pods bust open with what looks like kapok

.

The aborigines use the tree as a calendar, as the time of flowering, leaf fall and new leaf growth lets them know when the freshwater crocs are mating, laying, and when the eggs are hatching. The tree and the crocs probably receive the same signals from nature.

This afternoon it’s off for a swim in the pool, then a chill out and bit of planning for the next stage when we will be in Kakadu.

My idea of a chill out is to be in the shade, sitting on a comfortable chair, with binoculars and Pizzey close at hand ! A cup of tea every now and again. No alcohol before 5.30 !

That’s all for now, next post hopefully Jabiru Mon June 6. Not sure if there’s coverage there.

Katherine Gorge 2

Monday 30th May

The campground has a big population of Fruit Bats which roost in some of the trees – they make a terrific din and squabble and fight, and then fly if they are disturbed during the day, and fly in huge numbers at sunset. You wouldn't want to be camped underneath them!

Some of the Eucalypts have magnificent bright orange flowers – and the Rainbow Lorikeets match them! More Grevilleas, too.

Bird highlights: Double Barred Finches, Pheasant Coucal, Great Bower bird right up close, Dusky Honey-eater, Little Woodswallow

A cruise down the Katherine Gorge lasted about 2 hours and was stunning scenery

We saw a few Fresh water crocs.

No canoeing is allowed yet because of the danger of Salt water crocs that might have come in with the floods in the wet season. Traps are set to capture any ‘salties’ and no swimming or canoeing until they are confident it is safe – probably July this year.

Not many birds – but a Sea Eagle few overhead as the cruise ended. Saw fresh water mangroves, and heard many interesting facts about the area and the Jarwoyn people, who co-manage the N.P.

Another swim in the pool and washing done...the weather is perfect ...would be too hot without the breeze, so we go for walks early in the day and then as it cools down later. Lots of interesting people here so there is much chatting going on!

Katherine Gorge

Sorry its been a while between blog postings - it means there are too many at once, now. We had trouble with access but all ok now thanks to some young ones next door here!

Katherine Gorge is an absolutely beautiful spot and the camp ground is wonderful - spacious and a perfect setting, not many people here, and very good facilities. Even had dinner here after a swim in the pool! yes, both had a swim in the pool!!

There are lots of the little Agile Wallabies

We went for a walk along the river and saw an Emerald Fruit Dove, and on the way in we saw a Jabiru Stork.

Mataranka day2

Idyllic weather – cool nights, warm days, but not too hot! When we walked to the springs before breakfast there was mist/steam over the water and looked beautiful. We saw a small turtle in the water and lots of little fish.

There are lots, of what we thought, were small kangas killed along the road – but we found out that they are Agile Wallabies...only the size of a joey, which seem to cross the road at dusk.

We spent a day exploring the area further - went to the Mataranka Resort and Rainbow spring. There is a rather narrow creek meandering through lots of palms, which is a spectacular setting, but the spring pool and the resort area, is disappointing.

Apparently when there are too many Little Red Fruit Bats - sometimes over 200,000 – they strip all the vegetation. So to prevent this happening, some tall sprinklers have been erected to discourage them from going there in excessive numbers.

Many of the walks in the area are still closed due to flooding of the Little Roper River. There is debris in trees about 3 m off the ground, and sections of shallow water on roads. Several people were fishing for Barramundi – didn’t see any caught.

One new wildflower was a yellow hibiscus type flower – very similar to the Desert Rose in form.

We see lots of Brahman cattle. very different from Angus!

We spent a couple of hours at a wetland and saw some great birds.

Bird highlights : Black Bittern and the Shining Flycatcher....an exciting area for new birds.

Daly Waters to Mataranka

Only a short drive – we arrived by 10.30 and stayed at a pretty camp ground near Bitter Springs, rather than the very touristy main area at Rainbow Spring. We keep seeing many of the same people, and have some interesting talks with some... quite a few have dogs with them, and we thought of Geoff & Jean.

We had a general look at the area, then in the afternoon we walked to the thermal pool which is amazing – very warm, 33degrees , and crystal clear, (although a slight smell of rotten egg gas at times) quite fast flowing water. It‘s average flow is 300L per second – amazing! We got a noodle from the kiosk, attached a thong each end, as advised, and then floated down the pool which is about 200m long. The setting is divine, with huge Paperbarks and Palms, and a vertical ladder where you have to climb out, then walk back to the start. The weather is absolutely idyllic – warm, not hot, days and cool nights, no flies or mozzies. We had a magnificent view of an Azure Kingfisher as we floated past.

We bought a book about where to find birds in the N.T. before we left home, and that was fantastic...lots of new birds! On the road to see a cemetery where there are graves of people from the book and film “We of the Never Never”, my highlight was great views of Red-winged parrots. Then when we reached the wetland, two Blue-winged Kookaburras flew into a tree near me! They make a weird call, not like our Kookas at all. Also there were lots of Rainbow birds – magnificent. Rob’s highlights were Burdekin Ducks, Arafura Fantail (like our Rufous fantail), and a Yellow-breasted Honey-eater

Banka Banka to Daly Waters

We were told by several people that Daly Waters pub is a ‘must see’, before going on to Mataranka...and they were right! When we arrived, the dirt street outside the little pub was full of young people and about 100 painted old cars – apparently participating in a ‘Shit Box Rally’! a fund raiser for the Cancer Council. When we were going into the pub, one of the rally people said “Hey mate, your car looks a lot more comfortable than mine ... how about a swap?”

The pub has funny signs and collections of everything from hats to money notes from all over the world, and some signatures from famous people. They are renowned for their dinners of Barra or Beef, and justifiably so. When we had dinner that night, there was a guy called Chilli who told jokes and played guitar. He was quite funny – he said “What do you call the place where people go when they’re old, and walk around in their dressing gowns? ... oh yes, a caravan!”

On the way to Daly Waters, we saw some beautiful wildflowers – pink button type flowers were prolific, and there were some huge pink grevilleas, as well as several types of pea and many different wattles.

Bird highlights: Long-tailed finches bathing under the sprinkler at the caravan park and Apostle birds around the camp, Pheasant Coucal, Greater Bower bird, Paperbark Flycatcher, and Red-browed Pardalote.

Alice ,Wycliffe Well, Banka Banka

Tuesday 24th May


Alice to Wycliffe Well

After leaving Alice, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn ...at that point had travelled just over 3000km.

(Don't know why its turned this around..sorry)

There was a freshly killed kangaroo that had 2 Wedgies, 2 Whistling Kites and Ravens/Crows feeding on it...great views. No Kestrels or owl road kills so there is probably not a mouse problem there.

Saw lots of the Sturt Desert Rose  in flower – really beautiful, and a thrill to see it!

Wycliffe Well is a funny place – a good camp ground, (busy) and a lot of money must have been put in to develop it originally but all in a very dilapidated state. The theme is “The UFO Capital of Australia” and there are models of aliens and paintings etc...bizarre.

Wednesday 25th May  Wycliffe Well to Banka Banka


We went to the Devils Marbles, and they looked spectacular in the morning light.

There is more water left in creeks as we travel further north, and some extensive flooding in one area. Sections of the country have a very dense cover of wattles dominated by one species then another. It was a lovely surprise to see lots of Holly Grevillea and two other desert Grevilleas along the road. Alos a pretty Ptilotus.

There is a noticeable lack of birds – probably due to the widespread availability of food and water. Rob saw a Square tailed Kite – looks like a Harrier, but is obviously not one.

Tennant Creek had quite a good coffee...another nice surprise!

We passed a sign which said “Road Trains 53.5m long” ... and there were a few, but not much traffic.

At the Devils Pebbles, further along the way, we spoke to some people who told us not to stay at Elliot so we decided to go to Banka Banka Station which is really good...some nice walks, interesting people ( no power, but clean toilets and showers). It is so funny, all the chat, discussing experiences and gear!!

.

In Alice

Went in to Alice today to buy a new camera – it seems great and I’ve managed to work it out ok...seems very similar to our old one. Rob also bought a plastic dish for a bird bath to put outside the van. There have been lots of birds around but no exciting ones yet; Rob is very pleased and thinks it has lots of potential!

Had lunch at Emily Gap where I practised with the camera (note the self timer shot!),

but nowhere to walk so we went to Olive Pink Botanical Gardens- they are just beautiful, lots of plants in flower.
There we had a walk and coffee and choc mud cake with ice-cream. When Rob said “what about some cream”, the girl said “Ok, I can also give you a bucket of lard and an exercise bike if you like”!!

Erldunda to Alice

We saw three Barn owls and two Tawny frogmouth road kills; also three Wedgies. Rob talked to someone who had camped south of Erldunda. He said the mouse plague was so bad there that the mice ate through the wiring under the bonnet of the car, causing headlights to flash! This explains the road kills - the birds were probably eating mice. We were told that sprinkling Naphthalene around the car tyres will stop the mice crawling up – but the hardware store is sold out of naphthalene! No problems with them here, but hope it’s ok further north!

It was relaxing to chill out in Alice for the rest of the day, catching up on chores and then how lovely to catch up on Skype with all the family in the evening!

Some retrieved photos of the Gluepot.

Coober Pedy to Erldunda

Our last long drive today for a while... left 7.30 and arrived here at Erldunda by 3pm, after stopping every hour or 2, having a stretch, and swapping drivers. A few road trains – they are enormous! - but very little traffic and the road is excellent. We appreciated being able to have lunch in the van – the flies were frightful!


No exciting birds but there were little flocks of Budgies all the way, and Zebra finches breeding everywhere. Lots of Little eagles and Brown falcons also. We saw a dingo trotting along the side of the road, otherwise nothing much to report. There was water lying near the road in a couple of places so there must have been heavy rain recently. The country even around Coober Pedy is green as can be! It is 27 and breezy...time for a cuppa (maybe a coffee with our new percolator) and later, a walk.

Port Augusta to Coober Pedy

A long day’s drive, but we took time at several stops because there is nowhere to walk in Coober Pedy! And this worked out well because we had some very good bird sightings!


We saw many small flocks of budgies and cockatiels, and near Lake Hart, R was very excited when he saw about 6 Burke parrots and then just past Glendambo he saw another flock of about 6! (I missed them). The highlight for me was when we were stopped for a break and a walk about 130 km south of Coober Pedy, we saw some Orange Chats – excellent views! Amazing colour. Lots of Zebra finches, nesting; Chiming Wedgebills, nesting Southern Whiteface, as well as other more common ones.

The only reptile we saw was a Bearded Dragon (a lot bigger than Spike, Harry) and one dead snake on the road. There were some Sturt Desert Pea plants, but not in flower. The weather was about 26; lots of flies and burrs in the short grass, not much traffic – but R is getting RSI from so much raising the finger to oncoming vans!

A great day!

Berri to Port Augusta

Overnight in Berri it was about 0 degrees but we were warm in the van. We woke to a few notes of the Muppets theme, as Rob S says, - the pied butcher bird- and the day was beautiful and sunny as we headed off to Waikerie and the Gluepot. It was a treat to be able to buy delicious local mandarins and grapes along the way.


The road went through mallee country to the Gluepot and was really corrugated in parts, (we thought “get used to it!!”); the van travelled really well so that was a good trial. Once in the Reserve the road was fine and we registered and found a good camp site... no-one else here that we have seen. No showers, and only big drop toilet but that’s ok.

When we opened the outside lockers of the van there seemed to be no red dust there – and the same inside, so that’s good. The whole area is just fine red dirt/dust which covers everything!

Birds Australia bought the sheep station in 1997 with the aim of preserving habitat for endangered birds. There is 54,000 Ha, and includes some large areas of old growth mallee. Most of the dams have been filled in, as a strategy to reduce water availability for feral animals, and their management plan includes shooting of feral goats and baiting foxes.

We went for a walk to a bird hide, going through several different types of habitat. Not a lot of birds, but a beautiful walk. Had good views of a male red-capped robin and a male mulga parrot, and there were quite a few Nephila spiders in amazing webs. Their webs are 3D with several in the web, and the spiders are up to 8 cm long, their abdomens being about 2cm.

We went on the self guided Botanical walk – through mallee and black oak habitats which was valuable in helping to learn the desert plants. Also had great views of Brown Quail which apparently have only recently arrived. Through the day we went on other walks and drives, stopping whenever we saw birds.

Highlights: really good views of several Chestnut-backed Quail-thrushes that ran across the road and some Crested Bellbirds. There are several bird hides here at water points, but we didn’t see anything much there at all.

Lowlight: my camera has frozen after several strange messages appearing, so I think a new camera will have to be bought!

The Gluepot area was recently flooded, and last year also had heavy rains after many years of drought. This has resulted in plains that had been reduced to red dust, now are almost covered in a wide variety of small plants which are still germinating. It’s also amazing to see so much fresh green growth on Spinifex, several different Salt bushes, Emu bushes of all colours, Hop bushes and so many others....rejuvenation of the habitats. Seedbank girls will be interested to know there is a Scented Lomandra here – looks very similar to our local one, but grows in the red dirt!

Now I am in the van at Port Augusta after a walk in the Arid Lands Botanical Gardens, a shower – bliss!! A delicious meal of whiting at the local pub, and after another SOS to Rob B, I can use the emails as well as the internet. How would I survive without him?!

Off to Coober Pedy tomorrow. Not many flowers out at this time of year, but there were lots of Emu bushes of all colours at the Gardens.

Sorry this is so long - I wrote up like a diary when we didn't have internet access, and its too detailed ..also no photos!!

On our way

It was great to actually set off, once we had seen Polly so pleased to be at Sue and Derek’s!...aren’t we lucky? The new van is travelling really well and we are learning to do the ‘Topaz Tango” !...working out where everything goes and getting into a routine . We have found that traveling at 80km/hr instead of 90 - 95 we get an extra 100 km per tank... air resistance is high .... and is more relaxing. We get 13.4 L/100km whereas with the Avan we got 10.2 at 95 km/hr.

The Pink Lakes were not pink this time...strange!

After a delicious lunch at Redbank with Sal, we headed for St Arnaud and then to Horsham.
Quite a lot of the country is still flooded, and would be a haven for birds like crakes and rails - Rob had a fleeting glance of a crake or rail by the side of the road - may have been a Buff banded rail (or maybe a Lewins rail)– but there is so much habitat for them that they are not easily seen.

The country is green and paddocks are being sown down with winter crops...enormous machinery!

When I tried to connect to the internet with the Big Pond dongle -  drama!!! Unable to connect! SOS to Rob B then into Telstra this morning and easily fixed... apparently the credit had not been registered...so then off to Berri.
We enjoy going through the Mallee country to Pinnaroo, and arrived at about 3pm.

Had a lovely walk along a track through a Lignum swamp along the Murray, which was still flooded in parts, and was alive with birds.

P.S. Comments have to be done at the end of the blog - not from the side.